Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Fourth Edition

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  • 更新时间: 2019年07月11日

 

Summary

Written by experienced and internationally renowned contributors, this is the fourth edition of what has become the standard reference for cosmetic scientists and dermatologists seeking the latest innovations and technology for the formulation, design, testing, use, and production of cosmetic products for skin, hair, and nails. New to this fourth edition are chapters on dermatocosmetic vehicles, surface film, causes and measurement of skin aging, make-up products, skin healing, cosmetics in sports, cosmetotextiles, nutricosmetics, natural ingredients, cosmeceuticals, and regulatory vigilance.

总结

这是由经验丰富、国际知名的资深行业专家撰写的第四版,该书已成为化妆品科学家和皮肤科医生寻求化妆品产品配方、设计、测试、使用和生产的最新创新和技术的标准参考。产品内容包括皮肤、头发和指甲。第四版新添加了章节介绍了药妆载体表面膜、皮肤老化的原因和测量、皮肤愈合、运动化妆品、化妆品类纤维布、营养化妆品学、天然成分、药用化妆品和监管法律法规

 

 

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Contents

Contributors.................................................................................................................................................................................. xi

Section I Skin Types

第一部分:皮肤类型

Chapter 1 Introduction.............................................................................................................................................................. 1

Marc Paye, André O. Barel, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 2 Biophysical Characteristics of the Skin: Relation to Race, Sex, Age, and Site....................................................... 3

Virginie Couturaud

Chapter 3 Ethnic Differences in Skin Properties: The Objective Data.................................................................................. 19

Vishal Saggar, Sarika Banker, Naissan O. Wesley, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 4 Sensitive Skin: Sensory, Clinical, and Physiological Factors................................................................................ 59

Miranda A. Farage, Alexandra Katsarou, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 5 Neurophysiology of Self-Perceived Sensitive-Skin Subjects by Functional Magnetic Resonance Imaging......... 71

Bernard Querleux and Olivier de Lacharrière

Chapter 6 Tests for Sensitive Skin.......................................................................................................................................... 77

Enzo Berardesca

 

Section II Skin Hydration

第二部分:皮肤保湿

Chapter 7 Mechanisms of Skin Hydration.............................................................................................................................. 81

L. Kilpatrick-Liverman, J. Mattai, R. Tinsley, and Q. Wu

Chapter 8 Hydrating Substances............................................................................................................................................. 93

Marie Lodén

Chapter 9 Skin Care Products............................................................................................................................................... 103

Howard Epstein

Chapter 10 Confocal Raman Spectroscopy for In Vivo Skin Hydration Measurement..........................................................115

André van der Pol and Peter J. Caspers

 

Section III Skin Barrier

第三部分:皮肤屏障

Chapter 11 Evaluation of the Barrier Function of Skin Using Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL): A Critical Overview......131

Bob Imhof and Gill McFeat

Chapter 12 Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers: An Overview.............................................................................................141

Michael Rule, Sailesh Konda, Haw-Yueh Thong, Hongbo Zhai, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 13 Human Skin Buffering Capacity: An Updated Overview...................................................................................157

Jacquelyn Levin and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 14 Skin pH and Skin Flora........................................................................................................................................163

Shamim A. Ansari

Chapter 15 The “Magic” Effects of Dermatologic and Cosmetic Vehicles.............................................................................175

Katharina Bohnenblust Woertz and Christian Surber

Chapter 16 Dissolution of Materials in Contact with Skin Film Liquids...............................................................................189

Aleksandr B. Stefaniak

Chapter 17 Skin Care Occlusive Ingredients: Predicting Occlusion’s Effects Using Partition Coefficients..........................225

Farhaan Hafeez and Howard I. Maibach

Section IV Skin Aging and Sun and Antiaging Care Products

 

第四部分:皮肤老化、日晒和抗衰老产品

Chapter 18 Skin Ageprint: The Causative Factors.................................................................................................................235

Gérald E. Piérard, Trinh Hermanns-Lê, Philippe Delvenne, and Claudine Piérard-Franchimont

Chapter 19 New Perspectives in the Control of the Skin Aging Process...............................................................................245

Márcio Lorencini, Israel H. S. Feferman, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 20 Skin Aging: Microrelief and Wrinkle Measurements..........................................................................................251

Urte Koop, Thorsten Bretschneider, Sven Clemann, and Sören Jaspers

Chapter 21 Smoking and Skin Aging.....................................................................................................................................263

Maral Rahvar

Chapter 22 Antioxidants.........................................................................................................................................................269

Claude Saliou, Stefan U. Weber, John K. Lodge, and Lester Packer

Chapter 23 UV Filters.............................................................................................................................................................279

Stanley B. Levy

Chapter 24 Sun Protection and Sunscreens............................................................................................................................287

Bernard Gabard

Chapter 25 Sun and After-Sun Products.................................................................................................................................293

Helena Karajiannis and Bernard Gabard

Chapter 26 Living Skin Equivalents and Skin Organ Culture: Preclinical Models for Cosmetic Efficacy Testing..............301

Alain Mavon, Carine Jacques-Jamin, and Lucie Duracher

 

SectionV Skin Perception

第五部分:肤感

Chapter 27 Sensory Effects and Irritation: A Strong Relationship.........................................................................................313

Miranda A. Farage

Chapter 28 Silicones: A Key Ingredient in Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations..................................................................321

Isabelle Van Reeth

Chapter 29 Tribology of Skin..................................................................................................................................................331

Rasiq Zackria and Raja K. Sivamani

Chapter 30 Skin Wettability and Friction...............................................................................................................................337

Ahmed Elkhyat, F. Fanian, S. Mac-Mary, A. Guichard, T. Lihoreau, A. Jeudy, and P. Humbert

 

Section VI I Skin Tolerance

第六部分:皮肤耐受性

Chapter 31 Principles and Mechanisms of Skin Irritation.....................................................................................................345

Sibylle Schliemann, Maria Breternitz, and Peter Elsner

Chapter 32 Mechanism of Skin Irritation by Surfactants and Anti-Irritants for Surfactant-Based Products........................353

C.T. Jackson, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 33 In Vivo Irritation..................................................................................................................................................367

Saqib J. Bashir, Michal W.S. Ong, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 34 Noninvasive Clinical Assessment of Skin Inflammation.....................................................................................375

Michael K. Robinson and Kevin J. Mills

Chapter 35 Ethnicity as a Possible Endogenous Factor in Irritant Contact Dermatitis: Comparing the Irritant Response among Caucasians, Blacks, and Asians...............................................................................................385

Andrew Rong, Bobeck S. Modjtahedi, Nader Movassagh, Sara P. Modjtahedi, and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 36 Allergy and Hypoallergenic Products..................................................................................................................393

An E. Goossens

Chapter 37 Anti-Itch Testing (Antipruritics)...........................................................................................................................401

Heidi P. Chan, Hongbo Zhai, and Howard I. Maibach

 

Section VII II II Skin Color

第七部分:肤色

Chapter 38 Determination of Skin Color in Relation to Ethnicity, Gender, Age, Site, and Environmental Factors: An Overview.........................................................................................................................................................411

G. Cazorla

Chapter 39 Skin Care Products: Artificial Tanning................................................................................................................419

Stanley B. Levy

Chapter 40 Skin Whitening Agents........................................................................................................................................423

Michal W.S. Ong and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 41 Decorative Products.............................................................................................................................................439

Rodolphe Korichi and Jean-François Tranchant

Chapter 42 Removal Methods and Evaluation of Removal of Makeup Products...................................................................453

Nattaya Lourith and Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul

Chapter 43 Skin Radiance Measurement................................................................................................................................459

A. Jeudy, S. Mac-Mary, J.M. Sainthillier, T. Lihoreau, F. Fanian, and P. Humbert

 

Section VIII CIII CIII C III Cosmetics with Specific Targets

第八部分:特定功效性化妆品

Chapter 44 Anticellulite Products and Treatments.................................................................................................................467

André O. Barel and Peter Clarys

Chapter 45 Skin Healing: Integrating Scientific Advances into Cosmetic Practice...............................................................477

Ethel Tur and Laura L. Bolton

Chapter 46 Baby Care Products..............................................................................................................................................487

Bart Desmedt, Susanna Brink, Ralf Adam, Vera Rogiers, and Kristien De Paepe

Chapter 47 Cosmetics for the Elderly.....................................................................................................................................501

H. Reuter, T. Blatt, G.-M. Muhr, and F. Stäb

Chapter 48 Antiperspirants.....................................................................................................................................................505

Jörg Schreiber

Chapter 49 Deodorants............................................................................................................................................................513

Jörg Schreiber

Chapter 50 Use of Cosmetics in Sports...................................................................................................................................519

Ron Clijsen, André O. Barel, and Peter Clarys

Chapter 51 Cosmetotextiles: A New Aspect of Technical Textiles........................................................................................525

Mukesh Kumar Singh

Chapter 52 Measuring Hair....................................................................................................................................................539

R. Randall Wickett and Janusz Jachowicz

Chapter 53 Hair Conditioners.................................................................................................................................................561

Cheryl Kozubal, Arnoldo Lopez Baca, and Elisa Navarro

Chapter 54 Oral Cosmetics: A General Overview..................................................................................................................573

Nathalie Demeester, D. Vanden Berghe, and Mario R. Calomme

Chapter 55 Use of Food Supplements as Nutricosmetics in Health and Fitness: A Review..................................................583

Jan Taeymans, Peter Clarys, and André O. Barel

Chapter 56 Normal Nail and Use of Nail Cosmetics and Treatments....................................................................................597

Josette André, Christel Scheers, and Robert Baran

Chapter 57 Impact of Formula Structure to Skin Delivery....................................................................................................609

P. Wen, J. Paturi, and Y. Sun

Chapter 58 Natural Ingredients and Sustainability.................................................................................................................619

Claude Saliou

Chapter 59 Zinc Pyrithione: Critical Pharmacological Factors in Achieving Efficacious Dandruff Treatment Products....................................................................................................................................................627

James R. Schwartz, Eric S. Johnson, and Thomas L. Dawson, Jr.

 

Section IX Regulations

第九部分:法律法规

Chapter 60 Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetics: A Regulatory Overview....................................................................................633

Raja K. Sivamani and Howard I. Maibach

Chapter 61 New European Legislation Concerning Efficacy Claims of Cosmetic Products: An Overview of Different Methods of Evaluation.........................................................................................................................................637

Peter Clarys and André O. Barel

Chapter 62 Validated Alternative Methods Available for Human Health Safety Assessment of Cosmetic Products and Their Ingredients in the European Union............................................................................................................647

Vera Rogiers

Chapter 63 Cosmetovigilance in the European Union...........................................................................................................665

Marc Paye, E. Roni, P. Prasad, and M.G. Best

Chapter 64 Trends in Cosmetic Regulations in the United States..........................................................................................677

F. Anthony Simion

 

节录一:

片状ZPT结晶相对于颗粒状的ZPT的优势在于,在相同的添加量下,片状结晶对头皮有更广的覆盖面积,请见Chapter 59: Zinc Pyrithione: Critical Pharmacological Factors in Achieving Efficacious Dandruff Treatment Products

 

 

节录二:

化妆品纤维科技,市场上相对比较少,产品活性物通过包裹的形式,比如像环糊精类包裹物质,然后通过内衣、胸罩、袜子等衣物纤维的载体向人体输送相应的成分,达到护肤的目的

内容请见:

Chapter 51: Cosmetotextiles: A New Aspect of Technical Textiles

 

 

节录三:BB cream 的产品范围图示

 

 

节录四:cellulite

肪团是皮下脂肪和结缔组织具有典型的视觉外观橘皮皮肤的外观,从化妆品方面解决如下方案:

 

第一:.增加微血管血流量的成分部分科学家认为血流量和淋巴循环的改变在脂肪团的发病机制中起到了非常重要作用。治疗中的大多数活性成分都被认为可以增加微血管流量,也可能增加淋巴流。作用于皮肤微循环的植物提取物和化学物质包括栗子、甜三叶草、红葡萄、菠萝、银杏、积雪草

第二: 减少脂肪生成和促进脂肪分解的成分。这些产品的目的是减少脂肪细胞的大小和体积,减少对周围结缔组织的张力对脂肪组织有脂解作用的化学物质包括甲基黄嘌呤(可可碱、咖啡因、氨茶碱和茶碱)。

 

第三:修复脂肪细胞周围真皮和结缔组织结构,视黄醇(维生素A)作为一种抗细胞因子在这类药物中的有效性已被评估。

 

第四:防止纤维结缔组织(胶原纤维变硬、弹性丧失和粘弹性性质改变[蛋白聚糖])因老化和自由基形成而发生变化的药剂。维生素(抗坏血酸和维生素E)可以作为抗氧化剂,以及银杏和红葡萄。抗氧化剂可以保护皮肤和皮下细胞膜,抑制脂肪团的形成。

 

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